Meet The Great Marsh Shellfish Company, Oyster Growers in Massachusetts

When you farm shellfish on Massachusetts' beautiful coastal marshes, the world is your oy-stah! At least according to Brenden Doyle, a Gloucester native with family roots in Massachusetts' commercial and recreational fishing industry. He spent his childhood boating and fishing around Cape Ann and learning about the unique ecology that defines the North Shore.

His love of the sea led him to his first career with the U.S. Navy. While he later worked in IT, he always wanted to find a way to work on the water again. Inspired by family members who farm scallops and salmon in Nova Scotia, he purchased a 3.8-acre section of marshy wetland in 2018. After 3 1/2 years, he secured permits and started The Great Salt Marsh Company.

The company operates in the heart of the Great Marsh, the largest contiguous salt marsh in New England. It has more than 25,000 acres of pristine waters that offer rich tidal waters for oysters . The farm sits at the mouth of the Rowley River, which provides critical nutrients for oysters and muddy flats for oyster cages.

Farming Oysters from Tide to Table

The Great Marsh Shellfish Company's oysters grow in an incredibly productive environment. Oysters, like wine grapes, develop their flavor profile from where they are grown. They offer a unique taste of the place. The salinity of the Rowley River estuary, abundant algae, and marsh grasses create the distinctive flavor profile. Brenden describes his oysters as brine-forward and sweet, with a bright grassy aftertaste.

The oyster seeds are sourced from hatcheries in Maine. At 2 millimeters long, oysters start in the farm's specialized nursery and move through a series of grow-out equipment to condition their shells. Throughout the process, oysters are handled often to develop the deep cups ideal for shucking. This intricate process of moving each individual oyster through these stages is incredibly labor intensive. This year, Brenden's team will hand sort more than 1 million oysters. All this hard work pays off in high-quality oysters for the market.

After their final tumble at the farm, the oysters are sold to wholesalers who bring them to local bars, restaurants, and grocery stores. Brenden and his team hand-pick every oyster, guaranteeing quality in every slurp.

Working in harmony with the marsh, the team's schedule is dictated by environmental conditions. "We are often working on tide time," Brenden explains. "At low tide, we are working our bottom culture and oyster seed nursery; at high tides, we are tumbling and sorting larger oysters to maintain optimal density in our cages."

Oyster farming, however, isn't without its challenges. Brenden describes, "It's not all shucking oysters and wading in the water. It's fighting with boat engines, splicing broken lines, scrubbing mud and keeping mussels and barnacles off our oysters and gear." He notes that his dedicated team makes it all possible. "Working as a member of the crew requires both skills and heart. The skills can be taught, but you can't teach the heart."

Despite the demanding conditions, Brenden is committed to his work. Looking ahead, he hopes to expand operations to include quahogs, soft shell clams, razor clams, scallops, and even seaweed. The goal is to create a diverse, resilient farm to contribute to local and sustainable food systems.

Commitment to Sustainability and Community

Brenden is committed to running his business in a way that promotes environmental stewardship and community well-being. The oysters naturally enhance water quality by removing excess nutrients as they filter feed. Additionally, the farm's use of floating gear reduces boat wake, protecting shorelines from erosion.

Beyond its environmental contributions, the farm plays a vital role in the local economy. It provides employment opportunities for residents, boosting the North Shore economy.

The company is a key player in aquaculture research, collaborating with educational and environmental organizations on studies ranging from predator interactions and water quality to oyster genetics and ecology. For example, Brenden is partnering with Northeastern University and the University of Maine to enhance clam larvae recruitment and protect them from green crabs. In a region with a rich history of soft-shell clam harvesting, this will ultimately contribute to the reseeding of native clam flats.

His consistent engagement within the North Shore aquaculture community is instrumental in cultivating a sustainable future for the industry. As Brenden puts it, "The act of growing oysters isn't just about the oysters themselves. It's about creating something that benefits the environment, supports our community, and provides high-quality food for the future."

Fun Fact

The farm is providing the first commercially available oysters from the Great Marsh in more than 200 years. Oyster populations were overfished historically in this area. While recent efforts to restore oyster reefs are helping sustain wild populations, they can't currently sustain a wild oyster fishery. By farming oysters, The Great Marsh Shellfish Company gives people the opportunity to enjoy oysters grown in the unique environment of the Great Marsh once more.

Grilled Oysters with Harissa Garlic Butter

1. Blend ¼ cup (half stick) of softened butter with 2 tablespoons of harissa paste and 1 minced garlic clove.
2. On each shucked oyster top with 1 teaspoon of butter blend and place over a flaming hot grill.
3. Once the butter is bubbling like molten lava, remove from the grill, let cool slightly and enjoy!