From chai to ugali: Exploring food in Kenya

It has been about three weeks now that I have been in Kenya, living with a host family and adapting to a new lifestyle.

During this time, we Peace Corps Trainees have been learning all about Kenyan life-language, culture, cooking, customs, and more as part of pre-service training (PST). It's a critical time of learning, and our host families play a major role in helping us adjust to and integrate into Kenyan culture. In just a couple months, I will be sworn in as a Volunteer and will then move alone to a new village.

It is necessary for me to know how to survive and care for myself in this new environment. My host family has been teaching me how to cook local foods using a fire or a small propane or charcoal burner, clean a home, clean dishes, wash clothes, maintain personal hygiene, use a pit latrine, buy food from the market, navigate the area, and, of course, speak Swahili.

In this blog post I will focus on what I have learned about Kenyan food and drink.

The key food groups

Food in western Kenya, where I'm located, has some similar components to food in the United States and some very different ones. Vegetables such as kale and cabbage are common sides. Onions, peppers, and tomatoes are routinely utilized to add flavor to dishes. Beef and chicken are the typical proteins I have seen consumed, as well as fish, given our proximity to Lake Victoria. Rice and potatoes can be found in the Kenyan diet as well.

Ugali: the king of Kenyan foods

However, none of this compares to the prevalence of the king of Kenyan foods: ugali. Ugali is the staple of most Kenyan meals. It is a dense cornmeal dish that is made from corn flour and water. Brown and white ugali are eaten, but it seems most families and restaurants in our area prefer white ugali. Usually when eating ugali, the ugali doubles as your eating utensil. You shape it in your hand to create a thumb-sized "bowl" and use it to scoop up your sides or sauces. I find it to be quite filling and pairing it with other foods gives it a little bit more flavor.

Food preparation

Other common foods in Kenya include cooked green bananas that look and taste like potatoes, and chapati, which is made from flour and resembles a tortilla-shaped flatbread.

The cooking process for many of these foods can be laborious, especially given the quantity that needs to be prepared since there are 9 or 10 family members at a meal in my host family. The female grandchildren in my host family are expert cooks and have been great teachers who have helped me hone my culinary skills. Over the next several weeks, I will be learning to cook a few more dishes to add to my repertoire to ensure some variety when living and cooking on my own.

"Every time is teatime"

Lastly, when it comes to food and drink, I would be remiss to not mention the significance of chai or tea. As Kenya was colonized by the British the teatime you may typically associate with Great Britain is also strongly ingrained in Kenyan culture. A saying in Swahili, "Kila saa ni saa ya chai" translates to "Every time is teatime." Chai is typically served with each meal, as well as mid-morning, late afternoon, and sometimes even after dinner. Even our local school has a mid-morning chai break for students and teachers. It is also common to have a couple of slices of bread or another small snack to accompany your mid-morning and late afternoon chai. The chai here in Kenya is typically a blend of water and milk that is boiled with the tea leaves, which are then strained out. Sugar is often added as well. No matter what the day brings, I have learned you must always be sure to take your chai!

As my cohort of just over 20 Peace Corps Trainees has continued to participate in trainings (medical, safety/security, culture) to prepare us for service, we in the Education sector have also been observing classes in secondary schools (high schools) and teaching several lessons ourselves. As I continue my pre-service training, I look forward to growing more comfortable in my teaching role and learning more about Kenyan culture, including its cuisine!

Learn more about volunteering in Kenya, or connect with a recruiter to start your Peace Corps journey today!