The wave whisperer

"I want people to know you don't have to wear a lab coat to be a scientist, or a suit to be a respected voice in the community. You can wear boardies and a t-shirt and still study the beach, not just to earn money but to find purpose in life."

His desire to debunk the "surfer bum" stereotype mirrors his own unexpected career.

"In Peru in the 1990s, studying geography was not popular. I was going to drop out of uni. I was top of the class but bored. I thought I might become a nature photographer.

"Then I saw a brochure in my lecturer's room that had an Aussie guy in a wetsuit measuring waves. (It was Professor Andy Short, famous for conducting the longest quantitative beach monitoring program at Narrabeen, north of Sydney.) And that was it."

When asked about his best attribute, Javier nominates perseverance. "You don't have to be super smart to be a scientist. I'm not a computer. I can struggle with numbers. But I persevere."

Spreading the news

With his expertise so vital and relatable for millions of people who live by the beach worldwide, Javier has become sought-after by media as well as community leaders.

Finding the time can be tricky between teaching, researching and supervising eager higher-degree students, but he strongly believes that science must be communicated to ensure as many people as possible understand the evidence.