How the fashion industry's 'big green plan' is worsening microplastic pollution

Some of the world's biggest fashion giants have been accused of greenwashing after an investigation into microplastic pollution, reports... EuronewsIn recent years, recycled polyester has radically changed the fashion industry - often touted as the "holy grail" for environmentally conscious shoppers.

Big names like H&M, Adidas, Puma and Patagonia have already shifted almost all of their polyester from virgin to recycled in the name of sustainability - with many other companies pledging a full transition by 2030. However, a study by the Changing Markets Foundation, conducted by the Microplastics Research Group at Cukurova University in Turkey, claims that the big green plan has had a huge backlash.

Recycled polyester worsens microplastic pollution

Industry data shows that 98% of recycled polyester comes from plastic bottles, not textile waste. Many brands tout this as a circular economy. For example, Nike claims that using recycled polyester made from plastic bottles helps reduce waste, diverting an estimated one billion bottles each year from landfills and waterways.

Adidas echoes this sentiment, stating that using recycled plastic in their products is a vital part of their efforts to avoid plastic waste and stop pollution of the world's oceans.

However, the new study found that recycled polyester actually creates an average of 55% more microplastic pollution particles during washing than pure polyester. It also found that these particles are almost 20% smaller, meaning they are more likely to spread through the environment and cause harm.

Which fashion companies are to blame?

The study focused on a small number of items of clothing from five major brands: Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein and Zara. This included T-shirts, tops, dresses and shorts.

Researchers found that Nike's polyester clothing was the most polluting, both for virgin and recycled fabrics. The brand's recycled polyester released an average of more than 30,000 fibers per gram of clothing sample, almost four times the average for H&M and over seven times the average for Zara.

Shein's recycled polyester also released roughly the same amount of microplastics as its pure polyester clothes. Researchers suspect that some of the clothes sampled may have been incorrectly labeled as recycled. The fast fashion giant has already been hit with hefty fines, reaching 40 million euros, for false discounts and misleading environmental claims.

"A fig leaf for sustainability"

"Fashion is selling recycled polyester as a green solution, but our findings show that this is exacerbating the problem of microplastic pollution. This exposes recycled polyester for what it is: a fig leaf for sustainability, hiding fashion's deepening reliance on synthetic materials," says Urska Trunk of the Changing Markets Foundation.

She argues that "sustainable" design changes will do little to solve the crisis, adding that what is needed now is a slowdown and phasing out of synthetic fiber production and a halt to the conversion of plastic bottles into disposable clothing.

H&M and Adidas respond to greenwashing accusations

H&M said it welcomed research that helps the fashion industry develop, saying it shared environmental concerns about fiber fragments.

According to a company spokesperson, H&M Group is already addressing this challenge by focusing on research into manufacturing processes that reduce the release of fiber fragments, as well as fabrics and yarns that have minimal shedding. It also aims to improve reuse and recycling technologies, while supporting the development of laundry filters.

"Polyester currently represents approximately 22% of our total material basket, while cotton remains the material we use the most. Our industry still needs synthetic materials to ensure the functionality of our products," the spokesperson added.

Adidas defended the use of recycled polyester, claiming that it has a significantly lower carbon footprint than virgin polyester.

"The majority of available scientific studies show no difference between recycled and virgin fibers in terms of microfiber shedding. Fiber fragmentation is influenced by various factors, such as yarn specification, dyeing technology, coating, and material construction. Fiber type is just one of these factors," a company spokesperson said.

Zara, Shein and Nike have not yet responded to a request for comment.