Can Slugging Improve Skin Health? An Esthetician Explains This Skin Care Trend

Perhaps you've come across a popular skin care trend called slugging. It first made the rounds on social media.

Now, beauty influencers - and the users they influence - swear by it. They claim it helps moisturize skin, leaving it hydrated and more youthful looking.

In fact, the company that makes Vaseline, a product commonly used for slugging, reports that social media mentions of the product increased more than 300% from 2021 to 2022.

Of course, no single skin care practice is right for everyone. When it comes to health trends on social media, it's smart to take them with a grain of salt. Some are just hype and not backed by science.

But how does slugging stack up? What is it, and should you try it for yourself?

What is slugging?

Slugging involves applying a thin layer of ointment - such as Vaseline or Aquaphor - to your face on top of your moisturizer and leaving it on overnight. The thick ointments used in slugging are occlusives, which means they create a barrier on your skin's surface.

Slugging has three main purported benefits:

• Preventing water loss from your skin: Your skin naturally loses water throughout the day and night. This is called transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Slugging aims to stop this water loss by trapping your skin's natural moisture.

• Sealing in moisture from your lotion or cream: When you apply moisturizer some of its water evaporates as it dries. Slugging is thought to trap this moisture, so it seeps into your skin instead of evaporating.

• Helping to protect and repair your skin barrier: Your skin barrier is the outermost layer of skin. Its cells contain fatty acids and moisture. This barrier protects you from toxins, bacteria, viruses, and environmental pollution. When your skin is dehydrated, the barrier can be damaged. By keeping your skin hydrated, slugging is thought to help keep your skin barrier intact.

To be clear, the ointments used in slugging aren't necessarily hydrating on their own (this depends on their ingredients). Instead, their job is to help reduce water loss from your skin. Another benefit is trapping the hydration from your moisturizer, allowing it to be more effective.

Slugging should be done at night when your skin is most permeable. It's also the time of day when most water is lost from your skin. Slugging overnight while you sleep is also a good idea since the ointment will make your face look shiny and feel greasy.

Does slugging really work?

There are many anecdotal claims on social media that slugging has improved users' skin. But does it really work?

There's not much research on slugging specifically, but there's some science to suggest that it can be effective. And petrolatum - also called petroleum jelly - seems to be the best ointment to use. Many are familiar with Vaseline's original formula, which is 100% petrolatum.

According to a 2016 report in the Indian Journal of Dermatology, petrolatum can reduce water loss from the skin by as much as 98%. Occlusive ointments like Vaseline do this by successfully forming a barrier on your skin's surface to prevent water evaporation. For comparison, other products tested - including lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones - reduced water loss by only 20% to 30%.

Another study looked at the effects of an ointment that combined petrolatum and glycerin on skin. They found that the petrolatum not only reduced water loss but also improved skin barrier function. The glycerin helped improve skin hydration. This is relevant because Aquaphor Healing Ointment, which is often recommended for slugging, contains both petrolatum and glycerin.

Is slugging good for your skin?

Whether or not slugging is good for your skin may depend on your skin type. If you have dry skin, slugging may be a welcome addition to your skin care routine.

On the flip side, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests that people with acne-prone skin avoid using petrolatum on their face. Despite its thickness and greasy feel, petroleum jelly actually isn't comedogenic, meaning it's not likely to clog your pores. But it can still trap oil and dirt. This can trigger breakouts in those who are prone.

While petrolatum-based ointments used for slugging are well-tolerated by most people, those with sensitive skin may experience redness or irritation. If you have sensitive skin, start slowly by slugging once or twice a week to see how your skin reacts. If all goes well, you may increase frequency from there.

There's also the possibility of allergies. While allergic reactions to petrolatum are rare, some people have developed contact dermatitis from using it, especially on broken skin.

Is slugging better than just using moisturizer?

Moisturizers - like face lotions and creams - help hydrate your skin. But, as mentioned above, some of their ingredients evaporate before they have a chance to penetrate. Slugging creates a "wall" that prevents this evaporation. Research suggests that petrolatum can make the skin more flexible and help the moisturizers' ingredients soak into your skin more effectively.

Products for slugging

When it comes to choosing an ointment for slugging, your best bet is to keep it simple. The ideal slugging ointment is petrolatum-based with minimal additional ingredients.

Here are the most common ointment choices for slugging:

• Vaseline: Vaseline's original formula is 100% petroleum jelly, or petrolatum. Studies have shown it to be the most effective ointment for preventing moisture loss from your skin.

• Bag Balm Original Skin Moisturizer: The main ingredient is petrolatum, but it also contains lanolin, a wax made from sheep's wool. Some people may be sensitive to lanolin, so watch for skin reactions like itching or swelling.

• Aquaphor Healing Ointment: With 41% petrolatum, this ointment also contains mineral oil, lanolin, and glycerin. Like petrolatum, mineral oil is an occlusive, helping to reduce water loss. Glycerin (also called glycerol) is classified as a humectant and emollient, meaning it moisturizes and softens your skin.

• CeraVe Healing Ointment: With 46.5% petrolatum, this formula also contains hyaluronic acid and dimethicone, both of which help smooth and moisturize your skin. Dimethicone is also an occlusive, so it helps to seal in moisture.

How to try slugging at home

If you want to give slugging a try, it's very straightforward. Below is a step-by-step guide.

One important note: On nights when you're slugging, avoid using products with active ingredients, like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and retinoids. The ointment can trap these active ingredients on your skin, increasing contact time and potentially causing irritation.

Here are the steps for slugging:

1. Cleanse: Wash your face with cleanser.

2. Tone: Apply toner, if that's part of your routine.

3. Moisturize: Apply your regular moisturizing lotion or cream.

4. Slug: Apply a pea-sized amount of slugging ointment while your skin is still damp from your moisturizer. Spread it in a thin layer over your face.

5. Sleep: Go to sleep. It's a good idea to place a towel over your pillow.

6. Cleanse: In the morning, wash off the ointment using a gentle cleanser.

7. Finish your skincare routine: Do the rest of your morning skincare routine as you normally would.

It's often recommended to do this routine two to three times per week. You can increase the frequency to three or four times per week in colder months when your skin tends to get drier and there's less humidity in the air. Research shows that skin loses more moisture as a room'shumidity level goes down.

Pros and cons of slugging

Like any skin care regimen, slugging isn't for everyone. There are pros and cons to the technique.

Slugging's possible advantages include:

• Helping improve skin texture and appearance, especially for those with dry skin

• Enhancing the effectiveness of moisturizing products you're already using

• Quick and easy to do

• Inexpensive

The drawbacks of slugging include:

• Skin irritation and/or breakouts for some

• It's not ideal for acne-prone skin

• It can stain pillowcases and bed sheets (so you might not want to use your favorite silk pillowcase when slugging)

Bottom Line

Not all viral trends have merit, but slugging is one that does. The skin care technique may improve your skin's texture and appearance, especially if you're prone to dryness. It's also easy (and fairly inexpensive) to try. If you want to experiment with slugging, start by doing it one to two nights per week to see how your skin responds, and then increase frequency if needed.