Uzbekistan’s cotton reforms: Progress on forced labour, but not yet on freedom of association

Uzbekistan occupies a pivotal place in the global cotton economy. As the world's sixth-largest producer, its fibre feeds supply chains from Central Asia to garment factories and consumers worldwide.

For decades, the annual cotton harvest was notorious for the state-organized mobilization of hundreds of thousands of adults and children, often under threat of sanctions. Students, healthcare workers, teachers, and public-sector employees were forced into the fields, prompting international brands to boycott Uzbek cotton.

Under international pressure, the Cotton Campaign pushed Uzbekistan to reform the system. The ILO has played a central role in monitoring these reforms. In its most recent assessment, the ILO found very low levels of forced labour, marking a substantial shift from past practice. Following these developments, in March 2022 the Cotton Campaign ended the global boycott of Uzbek cotton, acknowledging progress while emphasizing that human and labour rights risks remain in the sector.

These changes are important, but they do not amount to full respect for fundamental labour rights or democratic freedoms in Uzbekistan. Freedom of association-a fundamental human right-remains severely restricted and independent trade union activity is essentially non-existent.

It was only in March 2021 that workers at an Indorama cotton plantation in the Syrdarya region broke new ground by forming Uzbekistan's first independent and democratic trade union, known as Xalq Birligi ("People's Unity"). Around 280-335 workers joined together in response to low wages and deteriorating working conditions at the site. The effort was blocked through legal obstacles and intimidation, leading the IUF to file a complaint with the ILO Committee on Freedom of Association.

The struggle for independent worker representation must be seen against the backdrop of broader political and human rights concerns. Independent civil society organizations and human rights defenders have long faced restrictions in Uzbekistan, including challenges in registration, limited civic space, and pressure on activists documenting labour rights issues. Human Rights Watch and Uzbek Forum for Human Rights have recently noted that coercive practices in agriculture, such as state-imposed production quotas and sanctions on farmers, still create conditions of exploitation and limit genuine autonomy for rural workers.

The transformation of Uzbekistan's cotton sector cannot be judged solely by the reduction in forced harvesting. Real progress must include meaningful respect for freedom of association and collective bargaining, which are crucial to empowering workers, improving working conditions, and ensuring that cotton production is decent and sustainable.

For global buyers and brands sourcing cotton or cotton-based products from Uzbekistan, this means going beyond compliance checkboxes. In the 21st century, responsible purchasing practices require robust human rights due diligence that includes political and civic freedoms-not just the absence of forced labour in the fields.

The ILO's Committee on Freedom of Association conclusions underline that Uzbekistan's journey toward respect for freedom of association and democratic labour rights is far from complete. Uzbek cotton remains economically important worldwide, but real progress will be measured whether the people who produce it can exercise their rights freely, and without fear.