NOBLE DIAMONDS & FINE TIMEPIECES

NOBLE DIAMONDS & FINE TIMEPIECES

Exquisite jewellery from aristocratic ownership and exceptional wristwatches to be auctioned on 22 and 23 May 2025

Jewellery "from European aristocratic estates" continues to captivate collectors at auction. On 22 May 2025, Dorotheum will offer an exquisite array of elaborately designed tiaras, necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants from exceptional aristocratic provenance, mostly set with a profusion of diamonds and rare coloured gemstones. On 23 May 2025, further notable pieces will come under the hammer, including wristwatches and jewellery once owned by Pierre Brice, who achieved great popularity with his portrayal of Winnetou in the 1960s Karl May film adaptations.

Among the highlights are three pieces from the former collection of the Neapolitan noble family La Francesca. These include a ring featuring a 5.63 ct brilliant-cut diamond solitaire of the finest white quality (€150,000-250,000), which was given to Felicita La Francesca by her husband Baron Camillo Romano Avezzana. The baroness was renowned for her elegance, and it is still said today that King Umberto I could not resist her beauty. The family's legacy also includes an Art Deco diamond bracelet by renowned Parisian jeweller Joseph Chaumet, featuring an untreated 12 ct Ceylon sapphire (€40,000-60,000), and a 1940s bracelet set with a total of 13 ct in diamonds (€15,000-22,000).

Few adornments symbolise high status more than the tiara, reserved for grand occasions. A fine example from around 1910, set with 25 ct of diamonds, is expected to fetch between €30,000 and €50,000. A wealth of other high-carat pieces will also be offered: a necklace with a total of 58 ct of diamonds (€60,000-80,000), a bracelet comprising 30 ct of diamonds (€28,000-40,000), and a pair of diamond ear clips weighing a combined 22 ct (€20,000-40,000).

Watches of distinction
Watch connoisseurs will be able to choose from numerous Rolex models at the auction on 23 May 2025. The offer includes timepieces by A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe (including a diamond-set Nautilus), Cartier and Chopard.

The highlight of the auction is a Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Grande Complication, with an estimate between €60,000 and €120,000. This year marks Breguet's 250th anniversary. The brand's founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is celebrated for pioneering horological innovations: he devised the tourbillon, patented in 1801, introduced the signature Breguet hands known for their delicate elegance, and a shock protection mechanism. The piece on offer, reference 5887BR, includes a perpetual calendar and indicates the real-time difference between solar time and standard time. The dial, embellished with wave-like motifs and fine engravings, alludes to Breguet's maritime heritage. A glazed case back offers a view of the intricate mechanical artistry within.

The Pierre Brice Collection
Pierre Brice (1929-2015) achieved cult status in the 1960s with his role as Winnetou in eleven cinematic adaptations of Karl May's novels. Following the French actor's death in 2015, a selection of his personal effects will be auctioned on 23 May 2025. These include three Breitling wristwatches (Chronomat, c. 1990, €1,200-1,800) and two from Cartier (Tank, c. 1965, €3,000-5,000, and Baignoire, c. 1970, €2,000-3,000), alongside cufflinks by Cartier and Tiffany and a set of tie bars with cufflinks (€2,000-3,000). The auction of personal items belonging to the "Rainbow Man" - as Pierre Brice was named by the Winnebago tribe of Nebraska - offers his fans the opportunity to acquire unique mementoes of the legendary actor.