06/13/2025 | Press release | Archived content
Getting started with rainwater harvesting is easy. But if you want to fully reap the natural bounty falling from Texas skies, you'll need a system that can collect large amounts of water (read: thousands, not hundreds of gallons) at a time-and effectively handling that increased volume requires a more sophisticated setup than a simple rain barrel. Here's how you can build one for your home.
The first step in constructing a medium or large volume rainwater harvesting system is to create a design that will maximize the amount and quality of water you collect. That requires determining the volume of water flowing off your roof when it rains.
The calculation is straightforward once you know your roof area and average annual rainfall: 1 cubic foot is 7.48 gallons, which means that 1 inch of rainfall produces 0.623 gallons per square foot. Plug those numbers into this simple formula to calculate the potential volume of water your home can collect in a year.
Gallons = Rainfall (inches) × Roof Area (sq ft) × 0.623
The map below provides a general idea of how much runoff you can expect, and in most parts of Texas, it's a lot. For example, a 2,000-square-foot roof in San Antonio will produce around 30,000 gallons of rainwater runoff annually!
You won't get all that water at once, so a system sized to hold a year's worth of water is unnecessary. When it comes to determining how much storage to install at your home, there's no perfect answer due to the unpredictable nature and frequency of Texas storms. So, a good method is to consider how you'll be using the water. This article focuses on building a system for irrigation, because an end use system requires a treatment system and a more complex setup to connect to your home's plumbing.
That said, if you know how much water you use for your lawn and garden, then you can size your storage capacity to meet your demands. The TWDB has created a free system sizing calculator to help you make an accurate estimate of what you need.
Another simple approach is to consider your supply-how much rain falls in a month during an average wet season in your area. For example, in San Antonio, May is the rainiest month, with about 4 inches on average. That means 5,000 gallons of capacity could hold a month's worth of rain if it came in a single event (which it does, on occasion).
Now that you know how much water you're working with, you'll want to evaluate any pre-existing conditions on and around your roof that can affect the quality of that water. The best way to do this is to get up on your roof and do an inspection. Are there trees overhead that drop detritus? Is there evidence of excessive bird or other animal waste? Are there broken gutters, seams, or rotted wood? If you have a composite or asphalt shingle roof, what kind of shape is it in?
These issues affect water quality and dictate the approach taken for pre-tank filtration. Ideally, you want your roof as clean as possible. While not all these issues are fixable, it's a good idea to trim trees back 3 feet from your house, replace aging shingles, and fix any broken or leaky gutters before installing your system.
Let's talk about the components to manage all that water effectively.
Pre-filtration removes leaves, sediment, and insects and includes leaf guards (1/4-inch mesh screens that are fitted to your gutters), rain heads (also known as leaf eaters), and strainer baskets.
When installing leaf guards, you want the side of the mesh sticking up to run perpendicular to the gutter run (in the direction of the water flow) to keep sticks from getting stuck. Rain heads can be found online or at your local hardware store and should be installed with a 6-inch gap between your gutter and downspout. Also, it's good to get in the habit of checking and cleaning your pre-filtration after every substantial rain.
A first flush diverter routes the first flow of dirty runoff water from your roof away from your storage tank and is installed between the downspout and your cistern. Diverters are relatively easy to construct using 6- or 8-inch PVC standpipe. The diverter fills with water first, backs up, and then allows clean water to flow into the main collection piping.
These standpipes are also installed with a cleanout fitting at the bottom and should be emptied and cleaned out after each rainfall event. A pinhole drilled at the bottom of the pipe or a hose bibb fixture left slightly open allows water to gradually leak out, and the water from the standpipe may be routed to a planted area.
If you are using 3-inch diameter PVC or similar pipe for your first flush diverter, allow a 33-inch length of pipe per gallon; 4-inch diameter pipe needs only 18 inches of length per gallon; and a little over 8 inches of 6-inch diameter pipe is needed to catch a gallon of water. The recommendation ranges from one to two gallons of first-flush diversion for each 100 square feet of collection area. If you need more volume than vertical space allows, you can run your first flush diverter parallel to the ground by creating an elbow at the bottom of the assembly to make it bigger.
Conveyance piping connects the components of your system. You can use galvanized steel, aluminum, stainless steel, or high-density polyethylene piping, but the most readily available and cost-effective material is 3- or 4-inch diameter PVC piping. PVC can be found at most hardware stores, but it's not UV resistant, so any piping that isn't buried should be painted to prevent degradation from sun exposure.
Cisterns store filtered rainwater above or below ground and, ideally, are opaque to prevent algae growth. Tanks are usually the most expensive part of every system and can be made of a variety of materials, including plastic, fiberglass, galvanized steel, concrete, and wood. Polypropylene and polyethylene tanks are common because they are readily available online and at farm and ranch suppliers, are cost-effective, and come in a variety of colors with capacities up to 10,000 gallons. For buried installations, specially reinforced tanks are necessary to withstand soil expansion and contraction.
Food-grade intermediate bulk containers (also known as IBC totes) are another storage option with a cheaper cost per gallon than most other tanks. If the water they hold is stored for an extended period, they should be painted or covered to prevent algae growth. Sand with 220 grit, apply "gripper" primer and two coats of flat exterior paint to keep UV light out, and you're good to go!
There are some key components to understand and install if your tank doesn't come already equipped. First, a calming inlet (the curled upward portion of pipe connected to the inlet at the top of the tank) is necessary to prevent incoming water from disturbing sediment at the bottom of the tank. Next is a floating pick-up (essentially a hose with a float attached to one end) for your outlet, which drains water from the top and prevents sediment from flowing into your irrigation system or watering can.
An overflow pipe is required to manage excess water when the tank fills and does double duty as an expansion port if you want to connect additional tanks to hold more water. Finally, the vent is necessary to prevent vacuum issues from plaguing the system during rain events. The vent, overflow, and other openings (if not connected to anything) on a tank should be covered with #24 mesh non-corrodible screen to prevent mosquitoes and other insects from getting inside-and note that the vent and overflow ports in the illustration are curled downward to keep out sunlight and prevent algae growth.
A pump supplies pressurized water for irrigation. If you plan to run sprinklers or drip emitters, you'll need a pump that provides a consistent 30 psi of flow to connect to the tank outlet.
When placing your tanks, the recommended installation is at least 24 inches away from any structure, at least 3 feet from any property line, and on a level surface. If you have a big tank, like a 5,000-gallon poly tank or larger, you'll need a slab or stabilized base.
Refer to your local building codes and soil load capacities to make sure your base is proper for the tank size and weight when filled with water. Pouring concrete is an option if you've consulted an engineer and know what size pad you need. Another option is to make a box frame using 6-inch-by-8-inch lumber and engineering structural screws, then fill it with compacted gravel.
Also, take time to consider the lay of your land and where the water from your overflow port, gutters, and first flush diverter will flow. You don't want to flood your neighbor's yard, and you do want to keep all that water on your property!
Constructing a rain garden with Texas native plants will absorb the runoff and pollutants while attracting songbirds and butterflies. Utilizing and creating passive retention features can direct water toward trees and other desirable parts of your landscape while rehydrating the soil.
Rainwater might be free, but keeping it flowing does come at a small cost-in the form of performing some basic maintenance on your system. Best practice is to check and clean any screen filters every 2 to 3 months. Every 6 months, clean your gutters and downspouts, rain heads, and first flush diverter. As you get to know your system, you can adjust your maintenance schedule.
Now you know about the components and considerations required to design, build, and maintain your own medium-to-large scale residential rainwater harvesting system.
To learn more about rainwater harvesting, additional resources are available on the TWDB website, including a downloadable PDF of the Texas Manual on Rainwater Harvesting.
Because Texas wants to encourage conservation, the state has laws on the books to help reduce the construction costs of rainwater harvesting.
Texas Tax Code § 151.355 exempts rainwater harvesting equipment and supplies from state sales tax. To claim this exemption, fill out and furnish a Tax Exemption Application Form 01-339 to the supplier of the rainwater equipment. In addition to tax exemptions, your local government may have programs to reduce expenses as well.
Also, per Texas Tax Code § 11.32, the Texas Legislature allows governmental taxing units the option to exempt from taxation part or all the assessed value of property on which water conservation initiatives are made. The taxing entity designates by ordinance or law the eligible water conservation initiatives, which may include rainwater harvesting systems. Check with your county appraisal district for guidance about county property tax exemptions for your system.
This article is posted in Water Supply/ Conservation/ Rainwater Harvesting.